Sugarloaf and River Usk, Abergavenny - 16th December 2018

On a dark and damp December morning, Al and I arrived in Abergavenny a few yards from Abergavenny Castle. The plan today, 10 and a bit miles up the Sugarloaf and back again.

First the domestics. The car park near the castle is pay and display Monday to Saturday, and if I remember rightly cost about £4 for the day, but it does have contactless meters for card payments. Its free on Sundays. There are no end of pubs in Abergavenny Town Centre, so that covers liquid refreshments too. On to the walk. Link to the route here.

We set off past the Castle and down to Castle Meadows, following the footpath along the River Usk to the road bridge. Point of interest, there are sometimes cows in Castle Meadows, but they are relatively friendly and uninterested in people. 

We crossed the road at the bridge, picking up the riverside path through more pastures, this time sheep! After about 2 miles of following the river, we turned away towards the hamlet of Llanwenarth. There's nothing really of note there, except a church and some cottages. Before reaching the village, we turned right along the lane leading to the A40.

Usk River Bridge

Sugarloaf

We reached the A40, then we crossed the A40. (The A40 is the main road between Abergavenny and Brecon) After crossing we headed straight uphill, along a single track lane. It started so promisingly, and I thought I'd been clever with the navigation, using a road to climb to the Sugarloaf Plateau. I was wrong.

When we reached the first settlement of building along the lane, we had the shit scared out of us by the angriest sheepdog ever seen. It was locked in a Land Rover, and in its passion to get at us, actually headbutted the windscreen of the vehicle and cracked it! We did not hang around.

The next part of the climb was lung busting, proper pass out stuff. The terrain underfoot was great, but the incline of the hill just kept getting steeper and steeper. I fell behind Al by about 50 yards (he's taller, long legs and super fit) and had to stop every couple of minutes to breathe. This went on for about 45 minutes, but it did eventually end, and when it did, I scoffed jaffa cakes, lots of them!

The tarmac lane turned into a permitted byway and became a bit stodgy underfoot, but at least it was flatfish and easy to follow. Shortly after, the track headed downhill, across another track and towards a run down collection of farm buildings. This was the low of the day. A walled garden with a pack of dogs running loose and chopsy, that was clearly not fit for the animals, and an eyewatering stench. The place wasn't very inviting so we passed on through along the track and out the back of the compound. Shortly after we saw the corpse of a dead sheep, just there on the side of the entrance road to the farm compound, barely feet from the buildings (these things were reported to RSPCA on return home, but no action taken).

I am not good at this selfie stuff! Sugarloaf summit in the background.

With that horrible part of the walk out of the way, we soon reached the bottom of the valley we were to ascend to reach the top of the Sugarloaf. It would take us north and then swing east once we reached the plateau proper. It was still grey and getting a bit windy and I was still puffing out my ass!

Looking back South into the valley. Blorenge can be seen in the far background.

Sugarloaf summit, from way down!

Puffing from one's rear end!

I've walked this route up the Sugarloaf at least half a dozen times, and I swear each time gets tougher.  It is absolutely nothing to do with my getting older or expanding waist line. Nonetheless, it is enjoyable and fulfilling, and every time I summit Sugarloaf, I am no less amazed at the view. Each time varies with the conditions. This time, it was grey, drizzly and a bit moody (well it was winter), and the low lying cloud blocked all but the summits of the surrounding hills. The summit was windy and bitterly cold, so we didn't hang around. One selfie, then off back towards Abergavenny and the car.

Pretty clear route to the top!

Top of Skirrid Fawr

2 idiots at the summit!

I will no doubt be back uo the Sugarloaf again this year, but hopefully in much warmer weather. That said, I found a new love of winter walking. The quiet and atmosphere are something worth adventuring for, even if the going can be tough. Winter doesn't have to mean hibernation, just wrap up and carry on!

Bredwardine, Arthur's Stone and Dorstone

This is another walk out of the 4th edition Wye Valley and Forest of Dean Pathfinder Guide. I originally undertook the walk in August, but have found myself distracted by other interests of late, hence why it is now December and I am just writing up the blog now! Route details here.

The walk starts at Bredwardine Church, not a stone's throw from the River Wye, where there is ample parking in the laybys on the entrance to the church. There are 2 versions of this walk, the longer route is 7.5 miles, the shorter option just the 5 miles. The walk is ideal for dogs as there are no stiles to negotiate, and for the pub connoisseur, there are 2 fine establishments to visit.

Starting in front of and facing the church, the walk heads off along a bridleway to the right, away from the Wye Valley Walk. The bridleway is followed for approximately a mile through woodland and passes the Motte and Bailey earthworks of Bredwardine Castle.

 The bridleway soon emerges onto the B4352, where the route heads left along the road for about 200m until it takes a right turn along a track at Bodcott Farm. The track continues uphill, passing farm buildings to a junction of 3 gates. I could tell you all to make a choice 'Indiana Jones' style, but I'm not that mean. Take the left hand gate and continue very much uphill along a sunken track. In the sunny weather this provides welcome shade, although the terrain is very loose and resembles a creek bed. In the wet weather I imagine it is more a stream. The track continues for approximately 1km and emerges onto a tarmac lane. From here there are stunning views across the Wye Valley, for which time should be made to enjoy.

Turning left along the tarmac lane (and again uphill), then right at a junction along Arthur Stone Lane, the going becomes easier and the views more dramatic as progress is made along the ridge. To the right, the Wye Valley, to the left, the Golden Valley, and beyond that, the Black Mountains. Other than the views afforded, the road is uninteresting, but do watch out for traffic heading upto Arthur's Stone.

Continuing along the lane, you soon reach Arthur's Stone. Despite it's name, it has nothing to do with the legend of King Arthur, but is an impressive neolithic stone burial chamber dating from 2000 to 3000BC.

Now, for a moan!! One of my absolute annoyances when walking, is having to walk over the same ground twice (linear walks, where you head out and back along the same route, being an example). At this point of this particular route you have 2 options. Continue along the lane and continue following it back to Bredwardine, for a short and cheeky. Or, continue along the long route and on to the village of Dorstone. I did this, which grated on me all the way down the hill and all the way back up the same hill.

That out the way, the visit to Dorstone was rather pleasant and does afford another pub to stop at. Heading down hill from Arthur's Stone, the route criss crosses a field edge all the way down, passing a private pond, complete with fishing dock and caravan, to reach a farmhouse. Continue down the farmhouse drive to the road, turning left then immediately right, downhill some more. Take the first left turn, which is pretty much straight on, along a lane, then taking the next right passed a row of quaint little cottages. Further along this leads into the village green of Dorstone, where you will find The Pandy Inn. I didn't stop on this occasion, but it was busy, which is always a good sign.

Turning right, shortly after the Village Green has come into view, you are taken along another lane to Dorstone Church (the lane is clearly signposted, just in case). The church is grander, yet newer than Bredwardine Church, but still a peaceful enough place for a spot of contemplation.

Continue through the Church to meet the road and turn right. This will take you back to the farmhouse and the start of the climb back to Arthur's Stone. While you retrace your steps following this route, there are other options should you wish an alternative way back to Bredwardine.

Upon reaching Arthur's Stone, again, turn left along the lane and continue to follow this all the way winding downhill to Bredwardine. There are various bridleways and footpaths that criss-cross the side of the hill should you wish and adventurous and more wild way back to Bredwardine, but the lane does provide solid footing and ease of navigation.

Upon reaching Bredwardine again, there is another pub to visit, The Red Lion (again, I didn't pop in, but it was also busy) is easy to find and doubles as a hotel.

So there you go, great views, ancient monument, 2 churches, retracing your own steps and 2 pubs! What more could you ask for?

Fownhope, Brockhampton and Capler Camp - Herfordhsire/Wye Valley

This is a walk I'd been meaning to do for a long time. Sat there staring at me from my 2005 edition of Wye Valley and Forest of Dean Walks Pathfinder Guide. This was walk 20 in 2005 and is walk 21 in the 2011 edition. Route information here

The walk starts at the beautiful village of Fownhope in Herefordshire. Parking is free at Fownhope Recreational Ground. There is also two pubs, where you can suitable reward yourself afterwards - The Green Man and The New Inn.

The walk itself has a long version (8.5 miles) and a short version (6 miles). With the weather so lovely I decided to 'go long'. The walk consists of mainly single track lanes in the first half of the walk and returns to the Fownhope via a section of the Wye Valley Walk.

Looking across to Fownhope from the Recreational Ground

From the Recreation Ground, the route is picked up on Capler Lane near the church. Turning right (South) away from Fownhope, the route follows the undulating Capler lane for over a mile, affording some lovely views across the River Wye and the surrounding countryside, before you actually take the track down to the riverside itself (For the short walk, you continue to follow the road uphill and turn left onto the Wye Valley Walk and follow it back to Fownhope). This stretch of the River Wye is so peaceful, my quiet reflection as I walked only broken by the sound of a group of passing canoeists and a swan hissing at me!

After about another mile of riverside tranquillity came the climb. Not particular high by any means, but relatively steep and thankfully shaded by the surrounding woods.

The top of the climb arrives onto a lane leading into the sweet hamlet of Brierly Hill, where the Wye Valley Walk is picked up. The views from Brierly Hill are vast if not obstructed by crop, and you can see as far as May Hill, distinguishable by its cluster of trees on the summit.

Heading first south and then east along the Wye Valley Walk, for little under a mile brings you to the village of Brockhampton. Here the route suggests a field path alongside the village, but the presence of the bovine demons put paid to that, so I diverted further along the road around the east side of the village. Most of Brockhampton is now a retirement complex, but has retained its charm through the preservation of the old buildings. Walking past the manor house, I saw a game of cricket being played on what could have been the lawn! There was a sizable crowd.

At the northern end of the village is Brockhampton Church. I like to visit the churches on walks, especially way out in the country, as the design and architecture can be very unique. Brockhampton Church is no exception. A thatched roof and wooden belfry are two of the charming features of this church.

Brockhampton Church

Signpost at Brockhampton crossroads

Heading north out of Brockhampton for a few hundred metres, I was at Capler Lodge (This is where the earlier diversion to the shorter distance route arrives). There should be a great viewpoint across the west of the Wye Valley, however, its heavily overgrown with trees, so a few brief gaps are all that remain. The view point does have a unique carved bench, each carving detailing features of wildlife, industry and culture of the surrounding area.

The carved bench at Capler Lodge

The view from Capler Lodge

Just past Capler Lodge is the Wye Valley Walk, again. The next leg of the walk takes in this delightful and well marked footpath for approximately 3 miles, back to the outskirts of Fownhope. The walk passes through the remains of the Iron Age Fort - Capler Camp - where there are again magnificent panoramic views to take in across to May Hill and the Marcle Ridge. A mile or so further along is Lea and Pagets Wood Nature Reserve. It's quiet, peaceful and full of wildlife. Colours, smells, birds and the odd surprised Weasel/Stoat. it could be either, all I could see was the body shape and colour so its a best guess.

Shortly after leaving Lea and Pagets Wood, is the small community of Common Hill. Common Hill has a unique tourist information office, which has been established in a disused red telephone box. This is located to a recently restored water pump.

Common Hill Tourist Office

Fownhope Church

I really enjoyed this walk, with such a range of things to see and views to take in. Its challenging in places, but fairly straightforward to navigate, meaning time can be taken to enjoy where you are, rather than work out where to go next. I'll be heading back here at some point methinks.

Skirrid Fawr

First day of a week's holiday and we've decided to take Bonnie up Skirrid Fawr in the Black Mountains. The main aim being to see how well Bonnie coped with a mountain, albeit on a much smaller scale.

We arrived at the National Trust Car Park at the Southern end of Skirrid Fawr with slightly overcast skies and a fresh breeze, perfect walking weather. Being a week day it was also very quiet, save for the occasional dog walker.

The walk is very easy to navigate, following a well constructed footpath and signs through the woods on the lower slopes, climbing steeply up onto the ridge of Skirrid Fawr. The ridge is then followed climbing gradually up onto the highest point at the Northern end, where the remains of an old chapel can be found. 

Being a single peak, Skirrid Fawr affords excellent 360 degree panoramic views. On our walk we could see across to Pen Y Fan in the West and the Severn Estuary in the East.

Bonnie coped remarkably well with the walk, although she scoffed her body weight in sheep poop along the way. She's such a dirty dog.

We stopped at the top for the obligatory photos and rest, and then made our way back down to the car park.

Forest of Dean Sculpture Trail

The weather has finally cooled enough to get Bonnie out and about exploring. Over the weekend we went to the Forest Of Dean Sculpture Trail. Not just some exercise for Bonnie, but some culture too. The route is too complicated to explain, but route maps can be bought for £1 at the Forestry Commission cafe at Beechenhurst Lodge. The trail itself is about 5 miles long, allowing for finding the sculptures and walking around them. Bonnie had a great time exploring, even bumping into wildlife in the form of deer and an unknown beast  we suspect was a bore hidden in the bushes.

The paths around the trail are well maintained and signposted.

Penallt and Millstone Country - 18th June

Having been frustrated recently with my lack of walking, be it through lack of time or lack of motivation, I finally got my rotund self moving on the hottest day of the year. It was too hot for Bonnie so she sat this one out at home. I picked this walk out of my latest version of the Wye Valley and Forest of Dean Pathfinder guide. If anyone has got it, this was route 4. 4 1/2 miles in distance.

I decided to pack light. Phone, book and camelbak.

The walk starts at the pay and display car park in Redbrook. Parking is £1.60 all day at time of writing. Setting off from the car park in the direction of the sports field (south) and heading for The Boat pub. (Yes, that's right, a walk that starts with heading for a pub!) Searching out and finding the footbridge across the River Wye to the pub, I was treated to the most beautiful views up and down the Wye Valley. The bridge sits about 15 metres above river level and once carried the Wye Valley rail line between Chepstow and Monmouth before closing in 1964.

After crossing the bridge, turn right and pass in front of The Boat pub. On nice weather days the pub can heave, with customers sat all along the river bank enjoying refreshments. Continue walking along the road until you reach a gate slightly off to the right and signposted to Monmouth. Go through and walk through meadow after meadow alongside the River Wye. In summer the vegetation can be very overgrown so trousers are recommended (I got stung and bitten a few times). Eventually, you'll enter Washing's Wood. Keep a look out for a signposted path on the left, heading uphill. Take the path uphill, turning right at the next 2 junctions. This will bring you onto a narrow tarmac lane, still continuing uphill, but more steeply. Near the top as the gradient starts to level, you'll reach The Old Church at Penallt on the right. Small, peaceful and scenic.

With your back to the church, set off straight ahead and slightly uphill. Shortly after, you pass Church Hill Common, opposite which are some stunning views across the Wye Valley to Gloucestershire. As the road bends round to the right, on the left you will find the Cross Dermond Coffin Stone. Coffins were set upon this to allow pall bearers a rest on the way to church for burial.

From the Coffin Stone, continue along the tarmac lane until you pass a turning on the left. Continue straight on and shortly after take a stile on the left into a small wood. Follow the woodland path to another stile set in a stone wall. Cross this and head straight across the small enclosure towards a gate. Turn right in front of the gate (there's a yellow footpath sign high up in one of the trees) and head along the enclosure perimeter to another stile that crosses onto a tarmac lane.

Turning left along the lane pass a newly constructed house on the left before taking a bridleway on the right signed to Pen Y Garn and Pen-twyn.

Continue along this, looking out for a stile on the left that leads into a field. Continue across the field keeping the hedged boundary on your left and proceed through a gap into the next field. Continue across this as before, keeping the boundary on your left to cross a stile into a hedged path. Follow this onto open heathland, heading towards a property on the right. The lane heads behind this property on the right to cross a stile onto a tarmac lane. 

Turn immediately left, then right at the junction, then left down a lane towards The Inn at Penallt . A lovely village pub that serves excellent food.

Looking towards the pub car park entrance, take a grass track off to the right passing to the right of Pen-twyn cottage.

Follow this to meet another tarmac lane and turn left, heading down hill for 3/4 of a mile. Keep a look out on the right for a new allotment slightly uphill from an old barn building with a totem pole (yes a totem pole). Mid distance along the lane between the allotment and house is a gravel track signposted to the River Wye. Take this and follow it down beside a wood store and through a gate leading to a stepped, down hill path. At the bottom you have 2 options. Either proceed straight ahead through a gate to the river bank, and turn left following the path back to The Boat or you can turn immediately left  and follow the old railway track bed back to The Boat. Both meet at the same place, the only difference being view and terrain. On this occasion I took the riverside view.

Once back at The Boat, you just cross the footbridge back to the car park. An enjoyable and mildy challenging walk, but with some outstanding scenic views and 2 cracking country pubs.